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Tuesday 18 February 2020

Over A Friendly Cup Of Coffee



The morning cup of coffee, the sensational brew that kick-starts our day, has a lot of stories to tell. We got our first hand information on its history, growing, harvesting, processing , grading etc. over an excellent brunch and of course a fantastic cup of coffee at Shreedev Hulikere's Woodway Homestay.

Coffee mug
Coffee - What better to kick-start a day with

The morning had been chill, eventful and exhilarating.  We had left early and travelled along bumpy bouncy roads to the Bhadra Tiger Reserve and had more bouncy rides during the safari. We were totally connected with nature amidst the lanky trees, rustling leaves, flowing waters, falling dewdrops and the morning breeze.  It was a natural high, but we were ready for our first  cup of coffee for the day after the incredible morning safari.

Coffee berries in Woodway Estate
Ripe coffee berries wait to be plucked at the Woodway Estate.

Now sitting in the open dining area with cool red oxide flooring and tiled roof, surrounded by coffee growing all around, the birds showing no restraint in their loud calls, we enjoyed a homely spread of Neer Dosa, Wogani and Upma with an assortment of side dishes. All this while being enlightened about coffee, the wildlife friendly culture of the estate and  tales of various face to face encounters with the four legged visitors to the estate.

Woodway Homestay surroundings
Beautiful surroundings at the Woodway Homestay
Coffee has had rather an adventurous journey across the world, from the time it was discovered. No one is a stranger to the legend of how we owe our gratitude to the shepherd Kaldi and his goats for our morning cup of aromatic coffee. The hyper energetic goats who refused to sleep after feeding on coffee berries led an observant Kaldi to examine the berries himself. Once he felt the same effects, he gathered up the berries and took them to a pastor in a monastery.  Now the pastor was not too pleased and threw them in the fire. But then the irresistible aroma that arose because of this action brought other pastors also to the scene. They pulled out the roasted beans and stored them in water for preserving and the rest is history on how the coffee was brewed.  Since all this action took place in Kaffa in Ethiopia, hence the name coffee for the favorite drink of millions.  There are other stories to compete with this legend, but this one seems to be the most popular.

Coffee beans
Coffee beans

Once the coffee reached  Yemen and Arabia, it was pretty much confined there with the Arabs controlling the export of only roasted beans to other parts of the world.  The seeds and plants were not allowed outside. Hence the name Arabica coffee. Of course during the course of the years coffee did find its way to various parts of the world through interesting events. But sticking to Indian angle, it was during the 1600s that  the Sufi saint Baba Budan  was on a pilgrimage to Mecca via Mocha, the port city of Yemen  and prime trading area for coffee. Tasting the coffee he realized its magic. Baba Budan was a wise man who knew its value. He was innovative enough to secretly  bring back seven seeds taped to his chest, since the Arabs were very protective about their coffee. Once back, the seeds found a home in the backyard of Baba Budan's humble abode in Chikamagalur where it spread and grew and whole lot of history happened with the British working the commercial angle.

Coming back to Shreedev's estate, he and his team practice growing wildlife friendly coffee. Being close to the Bhadra Tiger Reserve, the estate receives many four legged visitors from time to time. Sensitizing the workers to be tolerant towards these visitors while these animals take a stroll through or cut across the estate and holding back on harmful pesticides go a long way to work towards the welfare of these animals.

Tree canopies at Woodway estate
Canopies of various trees provide
the perfect habitat for various animals

The shade growing coffee nestled under the canopy of various trees along with small shrub trees to provide more shade for the coffee also means a good supply of food to these wildlife. A good access to water supply also makes this estate a safe haven for these beautiful creatures. Among other creatures, Indian Gaurs frequent the estate, while Tiger pug marks leave no doubt that they too feel at home here.

Woodway Homestay
A view of the beautiful entrance
to Woodway Homestay

Woodway Homestay is a beautiful and an amazingly peaceful place. The open courtyard is an excellent place for star gazing on clear summer nights. Be it just to get away and disconnect from the fast paced city  or to get into a meditative state of mind, or maybe to just sit and sip coffee and get lost in the sounds of nature, this is a perfect place.  The place is a natural stress buster and I am guessing it gets addictive too.

Coffee Processing
Coffee Processing

The 'sinkers' collected after 'wet washing' process
The 'sinkers' collected after 'wet washing' process

Coffee beans laid out to dry
Coffee beans laid out to dry

We had to head back to Chikamagalur town. On the way back we got a tour of Shreedev's estate where the grading, processing and drying of the seeds were going on. The processing is done via the wet method, which initially separates the seed from the pulp. Then the seeds are also segregated  by identifying the floaters and sinkers. Ripe coffee beans are dense and therefore sink. Overripe or underdeveloped coffee seeds are the floaters and are sent to be dried directly. The rest of the seeds are laid to dry after the fermentation process to remove the mucilage and they are spread out to  soak in the sun while being raked up to turn them over. Finally another sorting and grading is carried out before exporting or marketing.


Coming from a  family involved in  coffee cultivation for four generations, Shreedev ensures his coffee is 100% pure with no added chicory, thus preserving the heritage of coffee.  We were generously given a take away of Hulikere 1325 coffee in the most attractive packaging to experience the joy of pure coffee.

We came back carrying with us the flavors of amazing hospitality, beautiful nature, tons of information and of course the most amazing coffee.

Location map:

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

Interesting and informative story! Lovely pictures as well.

Shankar said...

Very good, nice photos and a history lesson on coffee which I never knew.

Unknown said...

Informative....

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