The Shiva temple - Kotilinga Chakratheerta

By Tharangini

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Continued from Exploring the Kotilinga Chakratheertha and its surroundings.

 After a short stop near the Kotilingas, and being in awe of the entire surroundings, we were back to climbing and clambering, at times just sitting on the rock and sliding to reach a nearby Shiva temple.

As mentioned in the previous part this temple in the banks of Tumgabhadra, (Hampi-Karnataka-India)  gets submerged when water is released from the TB dam during monsoons in Hospete, and is inaccessible during for almost 5-6 months. 

This Shiva temple, despite its utter state of ruin, still had the power to fascinate us. The main deity is missing in the Sanctum Sanctorum, and the temple is filled with sand. There are carvings of both Vishnu and Shiva on the outer walls of the temple and various other deities on the inner walls. 

Though there is no clear indication of who this temple was dedicated to, it is presumed to be Shiva temple because of the dwarapalikas (door keepers) at the entrance to the temple. 

The temple is very small and we had to crawl under a boulder to access it, but  despite being in ruins, there were indications of rituals that were performed there by devotees. 

Unfortunately there was also plenty of litter around.  But overall, this place was still magic.

Let's move on to the images. 

Lord Vishnu stands tall in this carving.

Ma Kali sits with a demure smile, holding a sword, trishula (trident) and  a damaru (drum).

Shiva with Damaru (drum) and Trishula (trident) seen in this carving            

The presence of Nandi indicates this could be a carving of lord Shiva,
but the bow and arrow  along with the sword is an
 unusual weapon combination for Shiva. 

Sage Vyagrapada ( who had tiger feet) an ardent devotee of Shiva and offered only fresh flowers
that were even untouched by bees to the Lord. During his daily visit to the depths of the
forest his legs were constantly injured by the thorns and rough surfaces of the trees.
Seeing his devotion and to help his endeavour, Shiva granted the boon of tiger legs.
Hence got the Vyaghrapada (Vyaghra means Tiger and pada means legs).

Yoga Dakshinamurthy - Lord Shiva's sculpture and in this
sculpture, we can see Lord Shiva sitting under a banyan
 tree in a yogic posture while putting
one of his legs on a demon whom he has killed.

Mahishashura Mardini seen slaying the demon in buffalo fom

Lord Suryanarayana standing in his chariot with his charioteer Arun who guides
the seven horses led chariot.

Sri Krishna Devaraya with his wives Chinna Devi and Tirumala Devi with their children
-Timalamba, Vengalamba, TirumalaRaya.
 Krishnadeva Raya's head gear indicates they are in royal attire in this carving.

 Sri Krishnadeva Raya with his family and all of them are in simple devotional robes
 in this carving

The visit to this place would not have been possible without the able assist of Srinivas, our guide. He
is a naturalist and can be contacted for any birding tour across Hampi too.  

Sarvesh, who is a very knowledgeable guide of Hampi monuments was incredibly helpful in identifying some of the carvings. Though he could not accompany us to this place, he guided us through video calls and images.

Please feel free to reach us for contact information, if anyone needs to use the services of these very enterprising young men as a birding guide or a tourist guide in Hampi and the surrounding areas. 

Location map:

Hirebenakal - A Megalithic Wonder

By Tharangini

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Location map:

Cellular Jail – An epic memorial of our Freedom Fighters

By Meera

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Continued from Part 1

Standing amidst the vast structure of the cellular jail in Andamans, is an ancient Peepul - a mute witness to the untold sufferings and sacrifices made by our countrymen and women for the cause of India’s independence. In 1998, this tree was uprooted in a storm, but it was luckily saved and re-planted at the same spot. 

Now why was the Cellular Jail built by the Colonial British? This was basically to incarcerate the teeming revolutionaries who fought for freedom in every way they knew, threatening the imperialism . They were transported from different parts of India to undergo solitary confinement and do inhuman work. 

The first to be transported included people tried in the Alipore (Ghose, Das, Dutta) case & followed by the Nashik (the Savarkar brothers’) conspiracy cases. In fact, Veer Savarkar served 27 years in the Cellular Jail & was not even aware that his brother too was in the same hellhole. Savarkar spent 10 years in a solitary cell at the far end of a long corridor on the third floor.

During 1909-21, a large number of Gadar heroes of the first Lahore Conspiracy case were transported to the Cellular Jail. It was David Barry, head overseer who made the life of the revolutionaries miserable and horrible. With a very twisted mindset to met out torture in multiple ways, he ensured it was always a do or die situation for the inmates. 

During the Malabar Rebellion movement of 1921, many Mopahlas with some of their families were transported to the Cellular Jail. Later they were given farm tickets and allowed to settle in these islands

It was during 1933 when new political prisoners came to Andaman Jail & went on strike for better conditions in this inhuman jail. This was followed by more hunger strikes and continued till 1937 but later called off after long discussions with national leaders.

 Although many people went back to the mainland, many from different parts of India settled down in these islands which was so far off from the mainland. 

However, there was no end to their sufferings when the local born along with those who settled here had to bear the Japanese invasion in 1939. The British, unable to defend this invasion, had to flee for their lives. 

The settlers were punished, tortured and killed by the Japanese for no reason for more than three years. 

The arrested people were housed in the sixth wing of the Cellular Jail and tortured day and night by the Japanese and suspected spies were shot dead at various placed in the island. This episode is known as the  Homfreyganj massacre and most of the people who were shot dead belonged to the Indian Independence league.

It was on 30th December, 1943 that Netaji Subash Chandra Bose who unfurled the Indian national flag for the first time on Indian soil in the Andaman Islands. 

After the surrender of Japanese forces in 1945, the British once again occupied the island but totally abolished the penal settlement.

 However, the remnants of their barbarity and inhuman torture of freedom fighters can still be seen today in the Cellular Jail.

Do not miss this “freedom monument” if you visit Andaman Islands as the spirit of the freedom fighters still lingers on. 

And one can feel their unbelievable sacrifices to gain freedom for their motherland as we go from the first to the third wing of the Cellular Jail. Don’t miss the light and sound show that highlights the sacrifices made by freedom fighters as this has not been written in any of the prescribed school text books.

Cellular Jail’s Dark Past – The Forgotten Heroes

By Meera

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Amidst the cool breeze wafting from the Andaman Sea, we entered the historic site of the Cellular Jail – once derogatorily known as Kalapani (black waters). And, as we traversed cell after cell, it was impossible to not feel its dark past – The walls of this structure still seemed to hold the shrieks and moans of freedom fighters who were tortured and condemned to death inside this historic monument.

We quietly walked the dark cells & corridors from one end to the other. The silent, dark walls spoke of unspeakable horrors committed by the colonial British on freedom fighters with the start of India's War of Independence in 1857. It was nothing short of barbaric and the stories are so heart wrenching that it is difficult to be unaffected after a visit here. 

Presently, refurbished with detailed info, the cellular jail's painful history (built in different stages and levels) has been chronicled in a museum, very extensively with models, pictures, documents & of course, the light & sound show in the evening that attracts a lot of visitors. 

The model of the cellular jail is displayed in one corner which shows how it was the most protected site and escape route for the freedom fighters was impossible as it is bounded by the Andaman Sea on all sides.

The cellular jail took form in 1896 and was completed in 1906. Since the Colonial British were not satisfied with the Penal Colony islands here, they came out with this kind of penal settlement that was inhumane in every way. 

To make the Cellular Jail more severe and harsher, solitary cells were added it therefore has 698 solitary cells. So, one can only imagine the plight of 1000s of prisoners who were secluded without a hearing or any justice for decades. 

The well-maintained brick colored Cellular Jail has three floors with seven wings. In fact, each wing radiates in a different direction from the central tower. Dark & eerie, it still seems to hold the heavy negative energy from the countless tortured souls. It is such a difficult feeling to shake off, that I can still feel it as I am writing about it in this moment. 

Honaji was one of the five known soldiers of Rani Lakshmi Bai of Jhansi who were all brought to the Andaman Penal Settlement as convicts in 1858. He was sentenced for transportation for life imprisonment in Andamans. The other four soldiers were Itu Patel, Lalai, Sadashiv Narayan Parulkar and Devi Prasad. 

In the Andaman Islands, these freedom fighters were forced to work in inhuman works such as swamp filling, forest clearing, earth cutting and other miscellaneous tasks to eventually get a Free Ticket. However, few could survive the hunger, disease, torture and the gallows.

One can still see and feel how freedom fighters were treated inhumanely by the colonial British. This is especially evident in the the oil grinding sites where prisoners were chained, forced to grind oilseeds. If they were unable to finish their quota of work, they were beaten & tortured till they were total wrecks. The oil mill site is a stark reminder of an imperialist force.

Scanty food, polluted water, sea water for bathing and always being chained resulted in unbearable pain & deaths of the prison inmates. Freedom fighters were also executed almost daily and hence cremation was very common.

In addition to this, many a freedom fighter & other prisoners also committed suicide as they were unable to bear the torture and unlivable conditions.


More in part II.

Mud Volcanos at Andaman Islands

By Meera

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Brahma Jinalaya - A compilation

By Tharangini

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Let me take you on  quick tour of one of the most fascinating structures in Lakkhundi in Karnataka.

The Brahma Jinalaya. This early 11th century temple was one of the many fine structures that were built by Attimabbe, a devout noble woman. 

Amrutheswara Temple - Annegiri

By Meera

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Twin Rocks of Morrice Dera Beach, Rangat, Middle Andaman islands

By Meera

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Limestone Caves of Baratang, Andaman islands - Nature's Hidden Wonders

By Meera

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Andaman Islands - Nature At Its Best

By Meera

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As our flight gracefully circled the Andaman Islands for approximately 15 minutes, the breathtaking sight of the lush, azure landmass invoked a sense of tranquility and serenity within me. Isolated patches of vibrant green islands stood silent, as if harboring untold stories.

Nestled in the cerulean waters of the Bay of Bengal, the Andaman archipelago attracts a multitude of visitors from the Indian mainland between November and April each year. Following a 2 1/2-hour journey from Bengaluru, the undulating capital city of Port Blair (located in the southern Andaman Islands) serves as the embarkation point for any planned exploration.

Port Blair

In Port Blair, the offerings for exploration are relatively limited. Spending two days here allows for a somber visit to the Cellular Jail, where the dark tales of our freedom fighters unfold. Subsequently, a ferry ride from the capital grants access to Ross Island, which served as a Prisoner of War site for the Japanese during World War II.

View of Andaman sea from the cruise steamer

Annigere – The Marvel of Western Chalukyan Carvings

By Meera

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A visit to the charming town of Annigeri in Karnataka's Dharwad district is nothing short of essential. Here, one can behold temples that effortlessly blend the intricate styles of both northern and southern temple architecture.

Annigeri – A Unique Gem of Western Chalukyan Heritage

By Meera

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View of Amriteshwara temple

While Tharangini and I were exploring the rich heritage of Lakkundi, our guide recommended a visit to Annigeri, which lies approximately 25 kilometers from Gadag city. Annigeri holds a special place in history as the final capital of the formidable Western Chalukyas, also known as the Kalyani Chalukyas. Their relocation to Annigeri came about due to their displacement from their former capital, Kalyani (now known as Basavakalyan in the Bidar district), following a conflict with the Kalachuris under King Bijalla-II.

The Narasimha Cult: The Rannebennur Naiks

By Meera

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A view of the temple on Oakli day

Lord Narasimha, the fourth avatar of Vishnu, has been worshipped in various forms for centuries now. Some families in Karnataka, Telangana, Tami Nadu and Andhra Pradesh have retained the Narasimha cult even today. 

The Narasimha Cult: Oakali Festival

By Meera

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View of temple

In a unique cult-festival celebrated across India, Lord Narasimha, the fourth avatar of Vishnu, is worshipped in quaint forms and ways. The Oakali tradition (sprinkling of holy waters on devotees) is a part of Narasimha Jayanti. It falls in the month of May and is celebrated in many places of the south.

Udayagiri Caves – The Prakrit Inscriptions

By Meera

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A side view of the Udayagiri Caves

There is more to Udayagiri Caves at Bhubaneshwar in Odisha as in the last 2200 years, many auxiliary structures have been added. A few caves show these additions (albeit highly damaged) from century to century.

As we climbed the hill that is strewn with rock-cut caves from one end to the other, our guide elaborated on the significance of some caves like the Hathi Gumpha with its famous inscriptions.

Udayagiri Caves - The Rani Gumpha Heritage

By Meera

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Long shot of pilasters and friezes in Rani Gumpha 

In the first part – I just touched upon a few details about the ancient rock-cut caves of Udayagiri in Odisha. Unlike Ellora, Ajanta, Karla caves in Maharashtra or Badami caves in Karnataka, the Udayagiri caves are unique as the art of carvings started some 2200 years ago and has stood the test of time amidst a vast spread of dense jungle.