In our recent visit to Hampi in Karnataka(India) we were quite eager to visit the Kotilinga Chakrateertha site and a Shiva
Temple on the banks of Tungabhadra.
These places get submerged when water is released from the TB dam during monsoons in Hospete, and is inaccessible during for almost 5-6 months.
After successfully hiking up to Hirebenekkal, we
were quite confident about being able to easily walk approach this place and
visit a couple of temples nearby.
This place can be approached
either by coracle or walk and with Srinivas as our guide, we decided to go
by coracle and come by walk.
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70+ years Mariswamy and his wife Saroja took us across Tungabhadra
in their coracle.
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After a brief coracle ride, we were dropped off at a point closest to
the the Lingas. The water was calm enough in our coracle ride, giving
us a chance to appreciate the ruins along the banks. Everywhere we turned,
there was something to catch our attention.
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Low level waters exposed a carving of a goddess on a rock. Every
rock was a canvas for the artisans of the Vijayanagar Era.
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The almost worn out steps leading to an unknown place of worship
or a meditation point for sages.
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Another temple ruin as seen from the coracle. The stacking of cut
rocks to achieve a perfect level for the base is clearly
evident here.
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Another meditation shelter with barely visible steps, again as seen
from the coracle.
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The pair of Nandis nestled in the rocks keeping a watch on the
river and its travelers.
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When we got off the the coracle, what we had not bargained for was
how Tungabhadra for over so many years had smoothened the rocks to such
amazing perfection. She did not make it easy for us and that made
navigating these rocks a pretty slippery ride.
Hirebenekkal
almost felt like a walk in the park after this.
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A family of devotees greeted us as soon as we got off the
coracle.
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A close up view of the large Linga in the center and the
surrounding lingas
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The indication of the direction to prostrate from.
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There are a couple of sets like this but there are so many more
individual Lingas all over the place. Just carved into the rocks here
and there.
Now the real reason behind carving these Lingas in this way is unknown,
but there are a lot of speculations. Some say this was a way for general
population to worship the Lingas, while others associate a numeric
significance to the number of Lingas.
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Anywhere we turned, we could spot Shiva Lingas carved out,
either singly or in pairs.
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Another one, but with just the outer boundary
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And another. It was so fascinating.
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A series of Nandis right next to the Kotilingeswara
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An abandoned construction as seen from the Kotilinga Chakrateertha site |
All these temples in the Kotilinga Chakrateertha site have been constructed during the reign of Vijayanagar empire and are dated between the end of 14th century and beginning of 15th century.
In the
next blog, we will explore the Shiva temple that is accessible only when the water level in Tungabhadra recedes.
Location map:
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