Varaha Temple – Hampi’s Exquisite Past

By Meera

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Long shot of the Varaha temple surroundings 

We were roaming around the rocky terrain of Hampi and were eagerly looking for a glimpse of the elusive Yellow Throated Bulbul, when we stumbled on the ruins of a temple that was never on our itinerary. This recently renovated temple is located on the banks of the mighty Tungabhadra River. It can also be seen on the way to the Vijay Vittala temple from Hampi town.
 

The entry tower to the temple 

As I walked around the temple complex, there were clear markings of the restoration by the Archaeological Survey of India while most parts of the temple are in ruins. The Varaha (mythical boar) temple sits quietly amidst a valley surrounded by the Matanga Parvatha on one side, the river on another, and the courtesan’s street on the north. As per the ASI information, the temple was built in the 13th century during the reign of the Vijayanagara empire.

 

Varaha carving

According to the Puranas, the Varaha that is the mythical boar is the third avatar (incarnation) of Lord Vishnu and he fought a demon - Hiranyaksha at the bottom of a mythic ocean to save the Earth. Although Varaha temples are rare, still one can find some temples across India in Tamilnadu, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Karnataka, Kerala, Odisha and Gujarat.

 

Side view of temple with its carvings 

A view of the Varaha temple from a distance clearly shows how it has been built on a “Jagati” meaning a raised surface, platform, or terrace. In this Temple, one can hardly see any people as it is not on the list of monuments that one should visit on a sojourn to Hampi, the famous World Heritage Site in Karnataka. While I went around the complex, the one thing that attracted me was the exquisite carvings on various walls including the entry tower.

Bas-reliefs

 

The temple with its intricate carvings

The temple is housed in a well-laid out rectangular Prakara (the outer part around the temple or an enclosure or a surrounding high wall). Some of the structures are in ruins but the carvings on the entry gate as well as the sanctum, vestibule and mukhamantapa (entrance porch) are a treat to watch. Since it is dedicated to Lord Varaha Swamy, the temple walls have bas-reliefs of the mythical boar.

 

No deity in temple

Apart from this, the temple also has a plethora of “Devakoshtas” meaning subordinate deities that include Shivalinga, Nandi, Yashoda Krishna, Ganesha, Makara and so many others. However, the main deity in the temple’s sanctum sanctorum is missing and whether it was Shiva or Vishnu, continues to remain a mystery.

 

Damaged portions with carvings

The entrance to the temple is pretty impressive but only part of the “entry tower” remains intact with the top half missing. During those days, heritage experts say it may have had a gopura but nobody is sure. Most of the structure is destroyed but the embellishing on the walls still reflects the grandeur and the glorious heritage of this empire.

 

Slanting wall 

The Varaha Temple today stands with the support of a slanting wall built recently with the stones that were found here. The supporting wall is an eyesore but one has to bear with it. You can even spot the numbers given to stone blocks by ASI in many parts of the temple wall. Thanks to Pompayya Maleamath, heritage expert and naturalist, I had an opportunity to take a peek at this temple.

 

Matanga from temple 

However, the view of the Matanga Parvatha from the temple is so breathtaking that I plan to visit it again. And not just that - the abundance of parakeets including the plum headed parakeet in pairs and other winged visitors in the temple surroundings keeps a birder happy as they can click away to their heart’s content.

Birds in temple surroundings 

 

How To Reach There :

 

Situated on the banks of the Tungabhadra River, the Varaha Temple is just about 250 meters east of the famous Kondandarama Temple. This temple falls on the trail between the Kondandarama and Vijay Vittala temple in Hampi city. Hampi is about 340 kilometers from Bengaluru and is easily accessible by rail and road networks.

Location map: